Lawn Care Tips

Appropriate and Improper Mowing

Incorrect mowing is one of the most common reasons for weed intrusion and pest damage. Cutting heights that are too short will lead to weakened yard plants and weed infringement. Brief lawn is vulnerable to condition and drought damage. Ants and other pests choose to reside in grass that has actually been scalped short. Scalping is the getting rid of more than one third of the grass blade at a time. Example: During the summer season when the lawn gets to be 6 inches tall, cut it to a height of 4 inches. (One-third of 6 inches is 2 inches. In this example, cutting off more than 2 inches would be scalping the lawn.).

Yards should be mowed to a height of 3-4 inches during the hot summer season, so set your lawn mower wheels at their greatest or 2nd highest setting. Grass mowed at this height will be greenest, due to the fact that lawn blades are their healthiest at this height, and are best able to perform photosynthesis. Individual turf plants supply healthy shade on their own and each other at these taller heights, as well as shading the topsoil and roots much better. Your yard will certainly require less watering and will certainly stop weeds from sprouting.

Why do lawn mowers have wheels that can adjust up or down?

Since turf has to be cut at various heights during the year! In March and April set your lawn mower wheels so that mown yard stands 1 1/4 to 2 inches tall, the shortest setting. In May and June grass ought to be cut to 2 1/2 or 3 inches, so go up a notch or 2. In July and August adjust wheels to cut 3 1/2 to 4 inches tall, the highest setting. In September and October, 3 to 2 1/2 inches provides optimum lawn health, so back down to a medium height. In November and December cut 2 to 1 1/4 inches tall, once again down to the shortest setting.

Why mow it short at the end of fall?

The longer you mow your lawn high, the longer it will stay green. I keep mine as high as I can, as long as I can. Late in the period (when day high temps drop to the low 50s) you need to start adjusting your mower down a notch, and by your last cutting (after many nights well below freezing) the lawn need to be cut as brief as you can without scalping it. This is essential for the survivability of your lawn throughout the winter months.

The much shorter the better, due to the fact that…Field mice (voles) are drawn in to long turf during the winter season, and they can do damage to your lawn. Voles are prevented by lawns with brief grass. Shorter tops make it easier for the roots to survive winter season tension. Roots will have a smaller sized job to do, compared with offering a bigger plant. Your lawn will have less winter season damage come spring. Snow mold spots are discovered on taller yards due to the fact that the turf blades are bent flat along the ground and remain immersed in water or at least lie damp longer. Standing water in spring vaporizes faster simply put lawn than long yard.

Your lawn will green up faster in spring. Short yard makes it much easier to dethatch or generate spring. It is also vital to tidy up all leaves, sticks, and particles from your lawn before the snow covers it.

In summary, during the hot months, turf plants are healthiest and most safe when they’re tall. In hot weather condition (July & August) higher cutting tones the lawn, maintains wetness, motivates deep root development, leaves more of the turf blade for photosynthesis, and hinders insect invasion. Short mowing during cooler weather (April and November) prevents disease, funguses, and voles.

If you should mow the same height all year, make it high. And naturally, do mow your lawn. A lawn left unmown looks uncared for and undesirable, and may be versus local laws! Keep your mower blades sharp. This implies sharpening the blade a minimum of once a year, and preferably three times: May 1, July 1, and September 1.

Alternate your mowing pattern each week. Mowing the same instructions triggers the lawn to “bend” in the direction you trim and can even develop wheel ruts. Rotating instructions remedies this issue. Think about cutting your lawn in four various instructions. For instance, north and south, east and west, diagonally from northeast to southwest, and northwest to southeast. Make use of a various direction each time you mow. It might be most convenient to simply purchase 2 or 3 brand-new sharp blades that match the one you’re currently using. Blades are not pricey and you can put them on the lawn mower yourself. Is it a trouble for you to await your local hardware shop to obtain yours sharpened? Why not bring all three blades to your technician throughout the off-season and have 3 sharpened blades prepared once more prior to the snow melts.

Don’t scalp your lawn. Cut regularly and get rid of no more than one-third of the lawn blade at a time. Removing more than 1/3 of the lawn plant is scalping. Scalping eliminates the green, food-producing cells and a lawn plant’s growth is stymied whenever it takes place.

Aim to prevent mowing when the grass is damp. You’ll always get a much better, more even cut, and the clippings will not clump up almost as much if the lawn is dry. Walking and pressing a mower in soft, wet soil can likewise produce tracks on the lawn. Aside from the ecological advantages, the only factor you have a lawn– and the only factor you cut your lawn– is so your home looks good. So don’t attempt cutting your lawn when it’s damp. It will not look better.